"On Top of The World!" - Marie Richards

Even in the most remote area on the rooftop of the world, technology provides a common language....

Dave shows a local Tibetan man a soccer match on his Blackberry.

Even monks need phones....

and digital cameras too!

"Samye Monastery" - Kathy McKinney

Returned from Samye monastery- one of the oldest monasteries in Tibet. Traveled across a river surrounded by dramatic mountain terrain in a boat reminiscent of that in the African Queen. At one point we pulled up beside a boat of monks in their red robes who started waving and taking our pictures and we did the same. Lots of laughter and smiles were shared. Inside the monastery we heard the musical chanting. An overload of sights, sounds, and smells of yak butter candles. I have learned so much in just one week ... That the Furman students stay a semester is an experience that cannot be replicated.

"A Harmonious Society" - Marie Richards

“The police love the people. The people love the police. Increase the love between the people and the police to build a harmonious society” read a billboard in Tibet.

Unlike the other cities we visited, the police were evident everywhere in the Autonomous Region of Tibet. The increased police presence was attributed to the protests that occurred in Tibet in 2008. They watched the pilgrims. They stood guard in the temple. They marched down the sidewalks and stood watch on street corners. They do not allow pictures and their solemn faces made a stark contrast to the easy grins of the Tibetans. After our bus waited patiently for a convoy of more than 20 military lorries to pass and then being flipped off by a soldier, I can understand why Tibetans are not loving the police. Although it is not as obvious in other parts of China, President Hu’s goal of a social harmony is being built upon stifling any thing that does not fit his catchphrase.

"Changes in Tibet" - Kate Kaup

Just a couple of minutes to write before we head off to Samye Monestary, Tibet’s first monestary.

We had a fascinating day yesterday. What struck me the most was the huge increase in military presence. I was here last in 2001. There was a clear police presence, but nothing like we’ve seen this trip. On the way to the Jokhang, there were small military stations with six police with clear full-body shields and machine guns facing out in all four directions…about every 100 yards! On the Jokhang, there were PLA soldiers, People’s Armed Police, and some Tibetan police. You can feel a clear undercurrent of resentment among the Tibetans—noone’s saying anything hugely overt, but they’ll make comments like “there used to be a Medical Temple on that hill across from the Potala until the Chinese tore it down and put up a TV tower” or “everything’s been reversed since 1959 [when the Tibetans rebelled against the PRC and were crushed]” or “everyone in this traditional Tibetan office is Tibetan…except for the First Party Secretary who runs everything.”

I tried to line up several innocuous visits (to a health clinic, for example) but was told by friends of friends who very much wanted to help us that it was “against regulations.” Breaks my heart. The situation is always tense in Tibet, but particularly so since the March 2008 protests. Though the protests occurred in dozens of Tibetan counties and were overwhelmingly peaceful, the Chinese press (extraordinarily tightly controlled when it comes to issues of “ethnic unity” and “social harmony”) focused only on those that escalated into some physical clashes and the press, of course, entirely left out the underlying causes of Tibetan resentment (which we’re seeing clearly, by the way, in the shape of upscale car dealerships and businesses run entirely by Han Chinese and all party positions being headed by Han Chinese).

OK…our taskmaster…I mean fine study leader…has us heading out the door now for another full day. More later!

"Devotion" - Marie Richards

Despite the perception that religion is not allowed in China, Buddhism is one of five legal types of organized worship. When discussing religion with some Han Chinese, we received a variety of opinions. One person told us that Buddhism is considered a religion to the poor or uneducated people, but those with education view Buddhism more as a philosophy than a religion. Another person told me that Buddhism is a spiritual way to connect with nature and a higher order world. She felt this was something that Chinese people had traditionally possessed, but were currently in danger of losing.

In Lhasa, Buddhism pervades daily life. Kate described Tibetan Buddhism as a way of being that cannot be separated into categories such as religion or philosophy. Pilgrims swarmed the Barkhor area navigating the kora (circuit) that runs around the Jokhang Temple. Many pilgrims would prostrate every 3 steps as a way of demonstrating devotion. First, they would raise their hands above their head with palms pressed together to symbolize the soul. Then they would lower their hands to rest in front of their faces to indicate speech. Finally, they would place their hands in front of their chest to represent the mind. After completing the arm movements, the pilgrims lowered themselves to their knees and then lay on the ground facing down. They would stand, walk 3 steps, and repeat the process. At some point in history, the pilgrims got smart and started wearing kneepads. They also had rectangular wooden blocks attached to their hands, which made a clapping sound as they prostrated.








The Jokhang Temple was not the only place that we witnessed the prostrations. There are 3 circuits around Lhasa and pilgrims could be viewed doing this on sidewalks across the city. We also witnessed the influence of Buddhism in everyday life. Many people twirled prayer wheels while walking through the street or engaging in normal activities. The local village home we visited had a room dedicated to a Buddhist shrine. Tibetan Buddhism is fascinating and impressive, as are the people who engage in it.

"Impressions of Tibet" - Dave Ellison

Potala Palace, Home of the Dali Lama

Friday afternoon in Lhasa after arriving from terribly smoggy Shanghai yesterday afternoon. The good news is the air is finally clean. The bad news is there isn't much of it at almost 12,000 feet elevation. Even with Diamox, I had a rough start and didn't feel even close to normal until this morning.

This morning's visit to the Jokhang Monestary, we understand the holiest place in Tibet, was packed with pilgrims, for many of whom this is a once-in-a-lifetime visit. From there we visited - and climbed- the majestic Potala Palace. It's the signature landmark of Lhasa. Then after watching "monk debates" at the Sera Monestary, we stopped in the bazaar in Lhasa for an hour of shopping. It's been our most active walking day.

Impressions and some of what we learned:

Tibet is part of China and has about 25% of her land mass, but it is very different. It has its own language, ethnicity, and Buddhism is entrenched despite the best efforts of the Central Govt to discourage it. However, one sees the PLA (Chinese army) all over. And Han Chinese, the dominant Chinese ethnic group, now make up perhaps 40% of Tibet. China is paying the big bucks to Han to get them to move here. Lhasa is a combination of first and third world urban feel. And its very dry.

Dr. Kate Kaup is knowledgeable, fluent, full of energy and fun. Pretty good combination of qualities to lead us. This is an amazing experience for Frances and me. I hope Furman alumni and friends will take advantage of these opportunities in the future.

"First Full Day in Tibet" - Tom Triplett

Our Purple Paladin Bus

The Potala Palace

We had our first FULL day in Tibet on Friday, May 21st. Everyone suffered a bit on our first night from the altitude, but everyone answered the bell on Friday morning.

Our first stop was the Jokhang Monastery in the center of downtown Lhasa. It is a very old monastery and most crowded place I have ever been. Pilgrims were coming from all over to visit the shrines, some of them going full prostrate every THREE steps to pray. There devotion is unbelievable. There was much yak butter and incense being burned inside. Truly an experience of a lifetime being in there.

Tibet pilgrims praying outside Jokhang Monastery

A market outside of Jokhang Monastery



Amazing woodwork

Our next stop was a hospital nearby that practiced traditional Tibetan medicine. We had a brief lecture on their practices by a doctor there. It was most interesting. For all you biology majors out there, he told us they figured out that the development of the fetus closely resembles the stages of evolution. In Biology 21, Dr. Pielieu taught us that morphology recapitulates phylogeny.
They figured this out about 700 AD!

A native Tibetan Medicine Hospital

Our next stop was the Potala Palace, home of the Dali Lama. We had a set time we needed to be there, so we got take-out, Tibetan style. Kate ran into a shop and got us some Tibetan qiches and muffins to eat on the way.

The Potala Palace is so big you have to see it to believe and you can't take pictures inside. Going to the top is quite a feat, especially at 13,000 feet, but we all made it and were glad we did.

Information on the Potala Palace

After a late lunch, we went to the Sera Monastery just outside of town. We were able to observe monks debating religious topics in their unique style.

Monks debating at Sera Monastery

Prayer wheels at Sera

Kate then took us to the market ouside the Jokhang Monastery for about an hour of shopping and bargaining with the local vendors. Some were better bargainers than other, but everyone came away with some treasures from Tibet. We had a late dinner at an upstairs restaurant downtown and then crashed.

Market Square

Saturday we look forward to a monastery out in the countryside and a visit to a village medical clinic.

A beautiful Tibetan Family photo