In Lhasa, Buddhism pervades daily life. Kate described Tibetan Buddhism as a way of being that cannot be separated into categories such as religion or philosophy. Pilgrims swarmed the Barkhor area navigating the kora (circuit) that runs around the Jokhang Temple. Many pilgrims would prostrate every 3 steps as a way of demonstrating devotion. First, they would raise their hands above their head with palms pressed together to symbolize the soul. Then they would lower their hands to rest in front of their faces to indicate speech. Finally, they would place their hands in front of their chest to represent the mind. After completing the arm movements, the pilgrims lowered themselves to their knees and then lay on the ground facing down. They would stand, walk 3 steps, and repeat the process. At some point in history, the pilgrims got smart and started wearing kneepads. They also had rectangular wooden blocks attached to their hands, which made a clapping sound as they prostrated.
The Jokhang Temple was not the only place that we witnessed the prostrations. There are 3 circuits around Lhasa and pilgrims could be viewed doing this on sidewalks across the city. We also witnessed the influence of Buddhism in everyday life. Many people twirled prayer wheels while walking through the street or engaging in normal activities. The local village home we visited had a room dedicated to a Buddhist shrine. Tibetan Buddhism is fascinating and impressive, as are the people who engage in it.
As a Furman alum and an avid traveler, I appreciate all the blog posts the contributors are taking the time to write. It's difficult to sit down and concentrate when you're jet-lagged and at altitude.
ReplyDeleteI traveled to China and Tibet in 2006 and came away with strong feelings about the Chinese in Tibet, Full disclosure: I'm a supporter of the present Dalai Lama. Moreover, I'm appalled by the military takeover of Tibet, which caused the Dalai Lama to run for his life. Getting rid of the revered leader of the country was the first step in destroying Tibetan culture.
A young Tibetan professor was brought in to talk with our 2006 tour group about Tibetan culture. She had been educated by the Chinese in China at no cost to the level of PhD. As she spoke from a prepared text, certain phrases were repeated again and again. The most prominent of these was "the peaceful revolution in Tibet." There was clearly an official story and she had to deliver it. Our Han Chinese group leader was there to make certain that nothing politically incorrect was said.
The Han Chinese who rule Tibet, especially those educated enough to speak English with tourists, are not reliable sources on Buddhism or any other aspect of Tibeta life.
P.S. Marie, your photos are beautiful.