"Octopus and Emperors" - Martha Kimmel

Editor's Note: Martha Kimmel graduated from Furman in 2008, Summa Cum Laude and was inducted into Phi Beta Kappa. Martha double-majored in English and Asian Studies and participated in Study Abroad in China Fall Semester 2007. She is currently working as an Admission Counselor for Furman in China. She met with the group while they were in Suzhou and Shanghai. Here is her summary of her time with our group from the US

Octopus and Emperors

Last week, I had the pleasure of meeting up with the group of Furman alumni and friends currently braving the adventure of traveling in China. I've been living in Suzhou since March working on introducing Furman to high school students here, and it was great to see a group of familiar Furmanites and hear their reactions to their China experiences up to that point. I've lived in China for about a total of two years now, but I always love seeing how people new to the country react to different aspects of a culture that in some ways is vastly different from our own.

For one thing, the food is always a shocker. Suzhou food involves a great deal of seafood: fish, shrimp, squid, and, what seemed to be David Ellison's favorite, octopus. As far as I know, I've never had octopus here before (I don't always know exactly what I'm eating here... I figure if my Comrades think it's edible, it can't hurt me!). But by the group's third day in Suzhou, David was willing to try anything. "What's this?" he asked, when the dish of gray, slimy looking chunks of something was set on the lazy susan, amongst the other dishes that we all shared family style. "It's that seafood with eight legs that shoots out ink when it's scared" Xu Chong, a Chinese teacher at Soochow University, explained to me in Chinese. "Octopus," I told David. "Great!" he replied, enthusiastically digging in with his chopsticks, with Frances happily following suit. Most of the octopus dish was left on the table when we finished the meal, which spoke volumes about its deliciousness, but I was impressed that there was enthusiasm at the thought of trying anything that could be described as "seafood with eight legs that shoots out ink."

The group also seemed charmed by the Chinese dining habit of "gan bei," literally "dry cup." Kate is the best at taking up this honor/challenge. She's learned impressively well how to deal with "Chinese vodka," a liquor made of sorghum which might be better described as Chinese white lightening. Every big Chinese meal involves multiple toasts, all of which require a dry cup in the end, and failure to dry your cup is considered loss of face. During the meals we shared with Furman friends from Soochow University, we all made a valiant effort to keep up with Dean Liu's toasts, but, in the end, only Kate was able to keep face while the rest of us looked on, faceless but admiring.

Suzhou is also famous for its canals, silk and beautiful women. Monday evening, after dinner, I joined the group for their boat tour on the Grand Canal, riding along in what we were told was imperial style, just like the Emperor of China 1,500 years ago. It was a beautiful evening, and the walls from the old town were lit, giving them a mystical aura. The aura lessened a bit, however, when we passed several structures advertising the World Expo in Shanghai. These were also lit, in neons and as many colors as you can imagine, making us feel less like imperial royalty and more like we were riding along in Willy Wonka's wackily terrifying boat. Thankfully, the Chinese love for bright colors was redeemed when we passed a more tactfully lighted fountain, also awash in a rainbow of color. The rest of the canal ride was made complete by a traditional music performance onboard.

After such enticing advertising on the Grand Canal, Richard and Carrie Tucker were kind enough to take me with them to the World Expo on Wednesday. We enjoyed wandering the vast expanse of pavilions that represent countries around the world in all sorts of interesting, artistic ways. We even ended up being a part of a TV commercial for the restaurant where we ate lunch.

I had to leave the group in Shanghai as they headed out to continue their adventures in Lhasa; I look forward to hearing stories of the crazy things they ate and colorful lights they saw there!

"Shanghai" - Tom Triplitt

400 Year Old Gingko Tree

We bid farewell to hot and humid Suzhou on Wednesday morning to drive to Shanghai, China's largest city at 20 million people. It is putting on its best face for the International Expo 2010. On our 2 hour drive east on a brand new toll road we passed development everywhere. The pace of progress here is staggering.

Night skyline in Shanghai, the smog never leaves

We went to another famous garden in the middle of Shanghai with amazing plants, lakes and structures. There was a huge shopping area outside the gardens and we all got a few souvenirs.

Famous Yu Garden

After another Chinese lunch (this one much more Americanized) we drove past Shanghai's amazing waterfront and then visited the Museum of Urban Planning. It chronicles the development of Shanghai and has a model of the whole modern city on the 3rd floor. It takes up almost the entire floor.

Model of Modern Shanghai

We then visited the Shanghai Museum which is a new building with many fascinating galleries featuring many aspects of Chinese History and culture. The bronze gallery was my favorite. Some of the pieces were from 1300 BC and had amazing technology.

We had dinner with Martha Kimmel and a friend of Kate's who works at an international school in Shanghai. We implored her to send us some of her best and brightest.

Martha, Kate and Zhang Xiaolu (who is training our Startalk Teachers)

We ended our evening with a performance of Chinese Acrobat.

"110th Year of Soochow U; The World Expo, and Cowboys!" - Carrie Tucker

The first week was very exciting with the Grand Dedication of the 110th year of Soochow University. They treated us like royalty with a special dinner with the President following the opportunity to meet and talk with him as a group. Everyone enjoyed the special treatment! The ceremony was a spectacular presentation with fireworks and fanfare. All of our dinners were hosted by Deans and/or attended by faculty. One of the highlights was the banquet after the Dedication ceremony. The President and all of the Deans that work with Furman came to toast our table, as well as many other tables.

The Tuckers with their Host Family in Suzhou

Who's the real cowboy here?

Our trips to the Silk Factory and Administrator's Gardens in Suzhou were very informative and special. The Suzhou Museum gave us the reality of how old China truly is.

We left for Shanghai on Wednesday morning. Richard, Martha, and I went to the World Expo. It was amazing to see the architectural design of all the buildings. We walked the entire EXPO, but only had time to see a few interiors due to the two hour wait. We did visit the USA building. It was not quite what we expected. It was great to have the chance to see it, especially with Martha, who guided us through all the obstacles.

We loved the trip and will definitely be going back!

"Barefoot Doctor" - Dave Ellison

Sending this via Blackberry. Hope I don't develop arthritis in my thumbs.

It's day 5 of our China In Depth adventure. We've been in Suzhou at Furman's sister university "SuDa". Now arriving in main part of Shanghai. This the biggest place I've ever seen and yet we've seen so little of it. We stop for a visit to the beautiful Yu Garden, and a brief shopping excursion before lunch. We see shanghai acrobats tonight and fly to Tibet tomorrow.

But first back to SuDa. Many highlights but perhaps the most appreciated was a lunch in a home. Our host is Dean Xu. He is an English lit prof who is retiring this semester. Born in a farming village, he is the first in his family and among about six from his village of 1,000 to go to college. His opportunity arose from his service as a "barefoot doctor" as a youth. Medical care was needed desperately in rural China and he was tapped. We learn his life story told in a genuinely humble manner. He tells us that prior to moving to Manchester, Eng for his PhD work, that he bought into the perception that Brits (and Americans) were "foreign devils". Great metaphor for why Furman needs rigorous Asian Studies. All for now. More later.

"China Engorged" - Marie Richards

Originally a lecture on our trip was titled “China Engaged” to represent the focus on furthering engagement through education. After our first week, we determined that “China Engorged” would be a much more accurate description of our experience.

Traditional Chinese dining involves eating family style from a table dominated by a giant lazy susan. The lazy susan is piled with dishes ranging from octopus to duck tongue to large sausage pastry balls. In theory, you are supposed to use your chopsticks to take food from the dishes directly to your mouth. The plate is for spitting out bones. Mastery of chopsticks has been an ongoing process. I almost impaled Jason at our first meal and was the only person at our banquet table to be offered a fork. At the end of the meal, a plate of sliced watermelon is served as dessert. After several “Two-a-Days” of overwhelming meals, we decided to fashion a sign with a picture of watermelon to signal to the waitress that we were done!

The other crucial component of meals is toasting. Bai jiu is the customary drink. Do not be fooled by the lovely blue bottle – this stuff could rival moonshine from the mountains of South Carolina….and win. Toasting is an important part of the culture and, fortunately, our Furman professor and trustees have been able to uphold our national honor.

Marie with the Baijiu

Kathy and Coleman toast at the Celebration

Kate and Martha take one for the team

"Celebration and Young Alums in China" - Tom Triplitt

Tuesday, May 18, our last full day in Suzhou.

We had a fairly normal morning schedule today, meaning we did not have to get up too early. We boarded our bus at 9 AM in our finest clothes and our VIP badges to attend the 110th birthday celebration of SUDA, Soochow University where Furman has a wonderful working relationship.
In true Chinese Style, there was much pomp and circumstance with thousands of chairs set up in the old courtyard, hundreds of dignitaries on the stage and at least 10 speakers AND fireworks! Our SUDA host, Harrison, translated for us while the speeches were going on, an amazing feat. It started to rain just as the giant assembly ended and we then boarded our bus to attend a huge banquet for all the VIP's and students hosts. There was much toasting and exchanging of business cards. The banquet hall can host a dinner for 1500.
After lunch we changed our clothes and went for a quick tour of the silk museum and then to one of Suzhou's famous gardens, the Humble Administrator's Garden. The Garden is actually his house and grounds that covers 5.3 hectares. It is stunningly beautiful with many of the same plants and trees that you see in the US.

We met some of our SUDA friends and 6 young Furman alums who are working in China for another Chinese feast that included jellyfish and octopus, then went shopping in the rain along a quaint little street. John-Stewart Clark, son of AD Gary Clark helped us bargain with the shopkeepers.

Young Alumni with Kate Kaup

Off to Shanghai this morning and then to Tibet tomorrow!

Go Paladins in China!

"Baijiu and Orchids" - Kate Kaup

6:45 am May 19

Well this is tricky!...the more fun we’re off having, the less time we have to blog about it!

We’ve had a great two days since I last posted anything. Monday I tried to compress sixty years of Chinese Communist Party history into fifty minutes and Dean Xu Qinggen reflected on his experiences during the Cultural Revolution. Dean Xu visited Furman in the spring of 2007 and taught Chinese poetry.

Monday night we were joined by Christy Campbell, a 2006 AS graduate who is now working in Cambodia aiding trafficked women who have been rescued in police raids.

Tuesday the group got to experience a university anniversary Chinese style, complete with fireworks and followed by the ‘ole midday banquet toasting of baijiu or white lightning. We were given royal treatment by our hosts, with orchid corsages pinned on us while we stood on a red carpet (literally!) before the festivities began.

Group on Red Carpet

After the banquet, we made a brief visit to the Silk Museum and then strolled through Suzhou’s largest garden, the Humble Administrator’s Garden.

Humble Adminstrator's Garden

Dean Liu of the Foreign Languages School hosted our farewell dinner, and we were joined by six Furman alumni and three of the teachers who will be coming to Furman this July. Four of our alumni are 2009 grads who are just finishing up a year teaching, two here in Suzhou and two about an hour away in Changshu. Stew Clarke, AS/Psych double major from the class of 2009, is opening up a donut shop here in Suzhou, and Martha Kimmel also joined us for dinner. Martha is doing fabulous work for Furman here as our Admissions Counselor for East Asia.

Have to run check out and catch our bus for Shanghai. More later!