“The police love the people. The people love the police. Increase the love between the people and the police to build a harmonious society” read a billboard in Tibet.
Unlike the other cities we visited, the police were evident everywhere in the Autonomous Region of Tibet. The increased police presence was attributed to the protests that occurred in Tibet in 2008. They watched the pilgrims. They stood guard in the temple. They marched down the sidewalks and stood watch on street corners. They do not allow pictures and their solemn faces made a stark contrast to the easy grins of the Tibetans. After our bus waited patiently for a convoy of more than 20 military lorries to pass and then being flipped off by a soldier, I can understand why Tibetans are not loving the police. Although it is not as obvious in other parts of China, President Hu’s goal of a social harmony is being built upon stifling any thing that does not fit his catchphrase.
Saturday, May 22, 2010
"Changes in Tibet" - Kate Kaup
Just a couple of minutes to write before we head off to Samye Monestary, Tibet’s first monestary.
OK…our taskmaster…I mean fine study leader…has us heading out the door now for another full day. More later!
We had a fascinating day yesterday. What struck me the most was the huge increase in military presence. I was here last in 2001. There was a clear police presence, but nothing like we’ve seen this trip. On the way to the Jokhang, there were small military stations with six police with clear full-body shields and machine guns facing out in all four directions…about every 100 yards! On the Jokhang, there were PLA soldiers, People’s Armed Police, and some Tibetan police. You can feel a clear undercurrent of resentment among the Tibetans—noone’s saying anything hugely overt, but they’ll make comments like “there used to be a Medical Temple on that hill across from the Potala until the Chinese tore it down and put up a TV tower” or “everything’s been reversed since 1959 [when the Tibetans rebelled against the PRC and were crushed]” or “everyone in this traditional Tibetan office is Tibetan…except for the First Party Secretary who runs everything.”
I tried to line up several innocuous visits (to a health clinic, for example) but was told by friends of friends who very much wanted to help us that it was “against regulations.” Breaks my heart. The situation is always tense in Tibet, but particularly so since the March 2008 protests. Though the protests occurred in dozens of Tibetan counties and were overwhelmingly peaceful, the Chinese press (extraordinarily tightly controlled when it comes to issues of “ethnic unity” and “social harmony”) focused only on those that escalated into some physical clashes and the press, of course, entirely left out the underlying causes of Tibetan resentment (which we’re seeing clearly, by the way, in the shape of upscale car dealerships and businesses run entirely by Han Chinese and all party positions being headed by Han Chinese).
OK…our taskmaster…I mean fine study leader…has us heading out the door now for another full day. More later!
"Devotion" - Marie Richards
Despite the perception that religion is not allowed in China, Buddhism is one of five legal types of organized worship. When discussing religion with some Han Chinese, we received a variety of opinions. One person told us that Buddhism is considered a religion to the poor or uneducated people, but those with education view Buddhism more as a philosophy than a religion. Another person told me that Buddhism is a spiritual way to connect with nature and a higher order world. She felt this was something that Chinese people had traditionally possessed, but were currently in danger of losing.
In Lhasa, Buddhism pervades daily life. Kate described Tibetan Buddhism as a way of being that cannot be separated into categories such as religion or philosophy. Pilgrims swarmed the Barkhor area navigating the kora (circuit) that runs around the Jokhang Temple. Many pilgrims would prostrate every 3 steps as a way of demonstrating devotion. First, they would raise their hands above their head with palms pressed together to symbolize the soul. Then they would lower their hands to rest in front of their faces to indicate speech. Finally, they would place their hands in front of their chest to represent the mind. After completing the arm movements, the pilgrims lowered themselves to their knees and then lay on the ground facing down. They would stand, walk 3 steps, and repeat the process. At some point in history, the pilgrims got smart and started wearing kneepads. They also had rectangular wooden blocks attached to their hands, which made a clapping sound as they prostrated.
The Jokhang Temple was not the only place that we witnessed the prostrations. There are 3 circuits around Lhasa and pilgrims could be viewed doing this on sidewalks across the city. We also witnessed the influence of Buddhism in everyday life. Many people twirled prayer wheels while walking through the street or engaging in normal activities. The local village home we visited had a room dedicated to a Buddhist shrine. Tibetan Buddhism is fascinating and impressive, as are the people who engage in it.
In Lhasa, Buddhism pervades daily life. Kate described Tibetan Buddhism as a way of being that cannot be separated into categories such as religion or philosophy. Pilgrims swarmed the Barkhor area navigating the kora (circuit) that runs around the Jokhang Temple. Many pilgrims would prostrate every 3 steps as a way of demonstrating devotion. First, they would raise their hands above their head with palms pressed together to symbolize the soul. Then they would lower their hands to rest in front of their faces to indicate speech. Finally, they would place their hands in front of their chest to represent the mind. After completing the arm movements, the pilgrims lowered themselves to their knees and then lay on the ground facing down. They would stand, walk 3 steps, and repeat the process. At some point in history, the pilgrims got smart and started wearing kneepads. They also had rectangular wooden blocks attached to their hands, which made a clapping sound as they prostrated.
The Jokhang Temple was not the only place that we witnessed the prostrations. There are 3 circuits around Lhasa and pilgrims could be viewed doing this on sidewalks across the city. We also witnessed the influence of Buddhism in everyday life. Many people twirled prayer wheels while walking through the street or engaging in normal activities. The local village home we visited had a room dedicated to a Buddhist shrine. Tibetan Buddhism is fascinating and impressive, as are the people who engage in it.
Friday, May 21, 2010
"Impressions of Tibet" - Dave Ellison
Potala Palace, Home of the Dali LamaFriday afternoon in Lhasa after arriving from terribly smoggy Shanghai yesterday afternoon. The good news is the air is finally clean. The bad news is there isn't much of it at almost 12,000 feet elevation. Even with Diamox, I had a rough start and didn't feel even close to normal until this morning.
This morning's visit to the Jokhang Monestary, we understand the holiest place in Tibet, was packed with pilgrims, for many of whom this is a once-in-a-lifetime visit. From there we visited - and climbed- the majestic Potala Palace. It's the signature landmark of Lhasa. Then after watching "monk debates" at the Sera Monestary, we stopped in the bazaar in Lhasa for an hour of shopping. It's been our most active walking day.
Impressions and some of what we learned:
Tibet is part of China and has about 25% of her land mass, but it is very different. It has its own language, ethnicity, and Buddhism is entrenched despite the best efforts of the Central Govt to discourage it. However, one sees the PLA (Chinese army) all over. And Han Chinese, the dominant Chinese ethnic group, now make up perhaps 40% of Tibet. China is paying the big bucks to Han to get them to move here. Lhasa is a combination of first and third world urban feel. And its very dry.
Dr. Kate Kaup is knowledgeable, fluent, full of energy and fun. Pretty good combination of qualities to lead us. This is an amazing experience for Frances and me. I hope Furman alumni and friends will take advantage of these opportunities in the future.
"First Full Day in Tibet" - Tom Triplett
Our Purple Paladin Bus
The Potala PalaceWe had our first FULL day in Tibet on Friday, May 21st. Everyone suffered a bit on our first night from the altitude, but everyone answered the bell on Friday morning.
Our first stop was the Jokhang Monastery in the center of downtown Lhasa. It is a very old monastery and most crowded place I have ever been. Pilgrims were coming from all over to visit the shrines, some of them going full prostrate every THREE steps to pray. There devotion is unbelievable. There was much yak butter and incense being burned inside. Truly an experience of a lifetime being in there.
Tibet pilgrims praying outside Jokhang Monastery
A market outside of Jokhang Monastery
Amazing woodworkOur next stop was a hospital nearby that practiced traditional Tibetan medicine. We had a brief lecture on their practices by a doctor there. It was most interesting. For all you biology majors out there, he told us they figured out that the development of the fetus closely resembles the stages of evolution. In Biology 21, Dr. Pielieu taught us that morphology recapitulates phylogeny.
They figured this out about 700 AD!
They figured this out about 700 AD!
A native Tibetan Medicine Hospital Our next stop was the Potala Palace, home of the Dali Lama. We had a set time we needed to be there, so we got take-out, Tibetan style. Kate ran into a shop and got us some Tibetan qiches and muffins to eat on the way.
The Potala Palace is so big you have to see it to believe and you can't take pictures inside. Going to the top is quite a feat, especially at 13,000 feet, but we all made it and were glad we did.
Information on the Potala Palace
After a late lunch, we went to the Sera Monastery just outside of town. We were able to observe monks debating religious topics in their unique style.
Monks debating at Sera Monastery
Prayer wheels at Sera
Market Square
A beautiful Tibetan Family photo
Monks debating at Sera Monastery
Prayer wheels at SeraKate then took us to the market ouside the Jokhang Monastery for about an hour of shopping and bargaining with the local vendors. Some were better bargainers than other, but everyone came away with some treasures from Tibet. We had a late dinner at an upstairs restaurant downtown and then crashed.
Market SquareSaturday we look forward to a monastery out in the countryside and a visit to a village medical clinic.
A beautiful Tibetan Family photo
Thursday, May 20, 2010
"Arrival in Lhasa, Tibet" - Tom Triplitt
One Leg of our flight to Lhasa
Arrival at Hotel in Lhasa
We had a very early (5:30 AM) departure for the beautiful Pudong Airport in Shanghai for our trip to Tibet. We had two 3-hour flights and then a 2-hour bus ride to get to Lhasa, Tibet. Kate actually gave a us some free time to acclimate to the altitude of over 13000 feet before going out to dinner. Everyone turned in early to prepare for our day on Friday, which includes the unbelievable Potala Temple.
We are at 13000 feet and my brain is feeling the effects of the altitude!
"Octopus and Emperors" - Martha Kimmel
Editor's Note: Martha Kimmel graduated from Furman in 2008, Summa Cum Laude and was inducted into Phi Beta Kappa. Martha double-majored in English and Asian Studies and participated in Study Abroad in China Fall Semester 2007. She is currently working as an Admission Counselor for Furman in China. She met with the group while they were in Suzhou and Shanghai. Here is her summary of her time with our group from the US
Octopus and Emperors
Last week, I had the pleasure of meeting up with the group of Furman alumni and friends currently braving the adventure of traveling in China. I've been living in Suzhou since March working on introducing Furman to high school students here, and it was great to see a group of familiar Furmanites and hear their reactions to their China experiences up to that point. I've lived in China for about a total of two years now, but I always love seeing how people new to the country react to different aspects of a culture that in some ways is vastly different from our own.
For one thing, the food is always a shocker. Suzhou food involves a great deal of seafood: fish, shrimp, squid, and, what seemed to be David Ellison's favorite, octopus. As far as I know, I've never had octopus here before (I don't always know exactly what I'm eating here... I figure if my Comrades think it's edible, it can't hurt me!). But by the group's third day in Suzhou, David was willing to try anything. "What's this?" he asked, when the dish of gray, slimy looking chunks of something was set on the lazy susan, amongst the other dishes that we all shared family style. "It's that seafood with eight legs that shoots out ink when it's scared" Xu Chong, a Chinese teacher at Soochow University, explained to me in Chinese. "Octopus," I told David. "Great!" he replied, enthusiastically digging in with his chopsticks, with Frances happily following suit. Most of the octopus dish was left on the table when we finished the meal, which spoke volumes about its deliciousness, but I was impressed that there was enthusiasm at the thought of trying anything that could be described as "seafood with eight legs that shoots out ink."
The group also seemed charmed by the Chinese dining habit of "gan bei," literally "dry cup." Kate is the best at taking up this honor/challenge. She's learned impressively well how to deal with "Chinese vodka," a liquor made of sorghum which might be better described as Chinese white lightening. Every big Chinese meal involves multiple toasts, all of which require a dry cup in the end, and failure to dry your cup is considered loss of face. During the meals we shared with Furman friends from Soochow University, we all made a valiant effort to keep up with Dean Liu's toasts, but, in the end, only Kate was able to keep face while the rest of us looked on, faceless but admiring.
Suzhou is also famous for its canals, silk and beautiful women. Monday evening, after dinner, I joined the group for their boat tour on the Grand Canal, riding along in what we were told was imperial style, just like the Emperor of China 1,500 years ago. It was a beautiful evening, and the walls from the old town were lit, giving them a mystical aura. The aura lessened a bit, however, when we passed several structures advertising the World Expo in Shanghai. These were also lit, in neons and as many colors as you can imagine, making us feel less like imperial royalty and more like we were riding along in Willy Wonka's wackily terrifying boat. Thankfully, the Chinese love for bright colors was redeemed when we passed a more tactfully lighted fountain, also awash in a rainbow of color. The rest of the canal ride was made complete by a traditional music performance onboard.
After such enticing advertising on the Grand Canal, Richard and Carrie Tucker were kind enough to take me with them to the World Expo on Wednesday. We enjoyed wandering the vast expanse of pavilions that represent countries around the world in all sorts of interesting, artistic ways. We even ended up being a part of a TV commercial for the restaurant where we ate lunch.
I had to leave the group in Shanghai as they headed out to continue their adventures in Lhasa; I look forward to hearing stories of the crazy things they ate and colorful lights they saw there!
Octopus and Emperors
Last week, I had the pleasure of meeting up with the group of Furman alumni and friends currently braving the adventure of traveling in China. I've been living in Suzhou since March working on introducing Furman to high school students here, and it was great to see a group of familiar Furmanites and hear their reactions to their China experiences up to that point. I've lived in China for about a total of two years now, but I always love seeing how people new to the country react to different aspects of a culture that in some ways is vastly different from our own.
For one thing, the food is always a shocker. Suzhou food involves a great deal of seafood: fish, shrimp, squid, and, what seemed to be David Ellison's favorite, octopus. As far as I know, I've never had octopus here before (I don't always know exactly what I'm eating here... I figure if my Comrades think it's edible, it can't hurt me!). But by the group's third day in Suzhou, David was willing to try anything. "What's this?" he asked, when the dish of gray, slimy looking chunks of something was set on the lazy susan, amongst the other dishes that we all shared family style. "It's that seafood with eight legs that shoots out ink when it's scared" Xu Chong, a Chinese teacher at Soochow University, explained to me in Chinese. "Octopus," I told David. "Great!" he replied, enthusiastically digging in with his chopsticks, with Frances happily following suit. Most of the octopus dish was left on the table when we finished the meal, which spoke volumes about its deliciousness, but I was impressed that there was enthusiasm at the thought of trying anything that could be described as "seafood with eight legs that shoots out ink."
The group also seemed charmed by the Chinese dining habit of "gan bei," literally "dry cup." Kate is the best at taking up this honor/challenge. She's learned impressively well how to deal with "Chinese vodka," a liquor made of sorghum which might be better described as Chinese white lightening. Every big Chinese meal involves multiple toasts, all of which require a dry cup in the end, and failure to dry your cup is considered loss of face. During the meals we shared with Furman friends from Soochow University, we all made a valiant effort to keep up with Dean Liu's toasts, but, in the end, only Kate was able to keep face while the rest of us looked on, faceless but admiring.
Suzhou is also famous for its canals, silk and beautiful women. Monday evening, after dinner, I joined the group for their boat tour on the Grand Canal, riding along in what we were told was imperial style, just like the Emperor of China 1,500 years ago. It was a beautiful evening, and the walls from the old town were lit, giving them a mystical aura. The aura lessened a bit, however, when we passed several structures advertising the World Expo in Shanghai. These were also lit, in neons and as many colors as you can imagine, making us feel less like imperial royalty and more like we were riding along in Willy Wonka's wackily terrifying boat. Thankfully, the Chinese love for bright colors was redeemed when we passed a more tactfully lighted fountain, also awash in a rainbow of color. The rest of the canal ride was made complete by a traditional music performance onboard.
After such enticing advertising on the Grand Canal, Richard and Carrie Tucker were kind enough to take me with them to the World Expo on Wednesday. We enjoyed wandering the vast expanse of pavilions that represent countries around the world in all sorts of interesting, artistic ways. We even ended up being a part of a TV commercial for the restaurant where we ate lunch.
I had to leave the group in Shanghai as they headed out to continue their adventures in Lhasa; I look forward to hearing stories of the crazy things they ate and colorful lights they saw there!
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